Scribbles Abroad

After Swaziland we booked it a couple hours West to the Northern Drakensbergs, the mountain range on the Lesotho – South Africa border.  A few weeks into our road trip we were flipping through a travel magazine, saw some amazing pictures of the Drakensberg Mountains, and decided to make it a stop.  Like most of our journey we were winging it and did not know what we wanted to see or where we were going to stay.  After a quick flip through our backpackers guide we found a place called The Amphitheater Backpackers.  It said they had a Jacuzzi in their bar, we were sold.

When we first arrived they took us on a little tour of the place and gave us this 20 minute sales pitch for the different tours that they offered.  The guy did a really good job because we were sold.  Even though it was pricey they made it seem like nearly impossible to do them on your own.   Much earlier in our round-the-world trip, I think in Vietnam, I swore off organized tours because they usually end up being a big over priced joke.  I must have forgotten all about that because we signed up for the Sentinal Peak hike and the Lesotho day trip.  Lunch, transport, and a first aid certified guide was included in the $45 fee for each trip.

The hip bar at the Amphitheater Backpackers

The next morning about 14 of us piled into a minibus along with our guide Zee.  The drive to the hike was FAR, about a 2 hour drive.  The roads were windy and it was very misty and foggy.  On our way we spotted a motorcyclist waving for help.  We were the first on the scene and called for an ambulance.  The guy was wearing protective gear but was still pretty banged up, if he were just 3 meters different no one would have found him.  After calling for help, we were surprised when our guide suggested that we get back in the van and move on instead of waiting with him until help arrived.  We all refused and there was little she could do.  30 minutes later a few police arrived followed by an ambulance.  We got back in the minibus and continued our journey towards the Sentinal.  We hoped it wasn’t a sign of things to come.

Sentinal Peak up in the clouds in the background

The hike was about 12K and took us about 5 or 6 hours.  There were people of different fitness levels in our group so we hiked really really slowly.  In a single file line and took a break about every 10 minutes.  This drove me a little nutty because its nice to walk at your own pace instead of feeling like a cow in a herd, but it did give you a lot of time to look around and soak in the scenery.

The herd

Walking along the base of the Sentinal Peak.  Look at how small we are!

There were a couple of girls in our group that were afraid of heights (acrophobia).  This was not a acrophobia friendly hike.  The sales people back at the backpackers intentionally misled the girls to make a sale.  The girls even told them they were afraid of heights and asked if they would still be able to do the hike.  They said, yeah, no problem.  The most difficult part of the hike was a loop, so once you committed there was no turning back.  The girls made it up the steep climb up to the view-point with some trouble but Todd was there to assist them and to keep them calm.

The steep climb up to the view-point

View of the amphitheater.  The peak that looks like praying hands is ironically called the Devils Tooth.

It was a loooooong way down, probably a mile high straight drop.  Creepy!  Kahi sat by on the very edge while I stood at a safer distance.

TOYOTA!

More refreshment, more reward.

Our guide Zee enjoying her lunch at the top

Kim getting a little too close to the edge for Todd’s comfort

After soaking in the amazing view from the top it was time to make our way down.  The most challenging part of the hike was descending a 100ft cliff on a chain linked ladder.  Sketchy…   Not something an acrophobiac would every want to do.

The ladder

Kim going down first

Todd making his way down

Sunset over Sentinal Peak, the highest peak in the background.

Nothing like soaking in a jacuzzi after a long day of hiking and Todd telling you all about it, click on the photo and check the jaw action

The hike was beautiful, but we could have done it on our own for $5 instead of $45.  The group tour would have been good if you didn’t have your own car but it you have one it might be nicer to go on your own.  We re-thought the Lesotho tour and decided that we’d do it on our own.  That way we could take our time and spend a couple days in Lesotho instead of a few hours.

The next day we drove to the Royal Natal National Park to do another hike with a different view of the amphitheater.  The last view was from the top down and this hike would give us the view from the bottom up.

Local kids selling rhinos and hippos made of clay at the entrance to the park.  Kahi made the mistake of telling one of the boys “maybe on the way out.”  He waited for us for 5 hours, ran up to the car, and said “mister, you promised”

The Amphitheater from down below

The first 3/4 of the hike was well marked and easy to follow.  Towards the end we were not quite sure where to go or where the end of the hike was.  After climbing up a couple of ladders that lead to no where we decided to walk up the riverbed until we found a nice view of the mountains.

Walking up the riverbed and keeping your shoes dry was a little challenging

Kahi’s super cool $10 shoes from “Jet” (a local cheap clothes chain)

Amphitheater

The Northern Drakensberg Mountains were magnificent, but after a couple full days of hiking we needed a break.  We packed our bag, loaded the car and made our way to the Lesotho Border.  They remain one of the highlights of our entire trips in South Africa.  GO THERE, DO IT ON YOUR OWN.