Scribbles Abroad

Returning to Hoi An was filled with anticipation. Last time we were here in December of 2008, Louise and I were falling deeper in love with each other and also now had a friend in tow. Louise’s college buddy Liz joined us for Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. Unfortunately she couldn’t join us this time as she recently had a baby. Maybe we can all come back together when her kid(s) are a little older.

17 years ago us in 2008 with Liz in tow

The Hoi An of 2008 was a quiet sleepy town that felt like a wanderers paradise. Not many people around and minimal tours to take. Just grab a bike and explore, and that is what we did. Hotels were less than $20 a night, bikes were free, a beer was a dollar, and meals were around $2. I’m glad to say some of this still intact. But what has for sure changed is that this sleepy town is now fully awake. High on the caffeine rush of Tourism, Hoi An is now an economic engine sucking in tourists, and spitting out tourists with bags full of custom clothes, lanterns, and other Vietnamese items.

2009 Then

2025 Now

Despite the changes, we still found Hoi An to be amazing, worth it, and charming. Granted there were about 100x more people there, but you could still find your solitude and peace amongst the madness. Slow down and chill between your fittings for your custom clothes and enjoy a coffee or 10.

This time around, Hoi An is where I discovered salted coffee. A coffee that has a salty cream on the top and turns your morning coffee routine into a savory delight. So hence, I had a lot.

While in Hoi An here are the following things we did and my rating as to whether they were worth it.

Get custom clothes made: Recommend

The tailoring of Hoi An is world renown and their ability to turn around custom outfits quickly makes the process work for a traveler. Prices have gone up by double, maybe triple, but compared to the western world, this is still very affordable. I would suggest taking an article of clothing you like and getting it replicated. Or having photos of exactly what you want from multiple angles to allow them to make them. We got Louise and Zo two matching outfits and one other for Louise. I got three pairs of slacks and a linen shirt. For price comparisons, my tailored pants with very high end fabrics cost me about $55 and it took three fittings to get it perfect. I’m a bit worried though as I am currently fat for my body and am hoping to lose some weight. That being said, they tailored all of our items to be adjustable if needed, by a professional tailor that is. But you know Louise would probably be the one to take a stab at it.

PICS FROM THEN – 2009, Kahi 29 and Louise 24

Getting Clothes made in 2008

NOW 2025

Getting Clothes made in 2025

Coconut Basket Tour: Highly Recommend

These baskets (boats) were created during the French occupation of Vietnam due to the French’s excessive taxing of the Vietnamese. They had this one specific tax for boats but defined them as water craft with a bow and a stern. The creative and entrepreneurial Vietnamese created a circular boat to circumvent this tax and the move stuck. These boats are now prolific in the Hoi An and Danang area. Not sure if they’re elsewhere.

Taking a ride in them is fun and affordable. Some tours actually have them included in the tour, which we found out on our cooking tour. Therefore, we ended up doing TWO circle boat tours.

They take you out and you get to see how they work, explore the river waterways, fish a little, and if you’re up for it, go for a spin! They’ll literally spin you until you’re very dizzy. Don’t fall out though, the water doesn’t look safe to fall in, not because of some giant creature that will eat you but rather microscopic ones from the mediocre sewage and run off systems that empty into the waterways.

In the end, we loved this tour! We did it twice! Great for the kids.

Cooking Class: Kinda Recommend

Hey, the wife and kids loved it, but me, I was mixed on it. If you got kids and are looking for something to do, then this is actually pretty cool. Great bonding experience and it came with the extra coconut basket tour. Don’t expect a deep dive into spices and techniques. The class we took was very basic but the food we cooked tasted great. If you’re looking for a deeper dive into culinary processes, then the standard tour is not it. But if you’re looking for something fun, good for the kids, and affordable, then this is it. Our tour cost us $20/each for adults and $10/each for the kids. It ran from 8 AM to noon. They picked us up from the hotel, took us to a local market, then we did the boat tour, and finished at the cooking school.

Spa Day: Highly Recommend

Zo has been squawking about getting her hair dyed for ages and with the pricing in Hawaii, it just isn’t feasible. But here? Heck yeah! So we spent a late afternoon into the night at the Hair Salon/Spa where Louise and Zo got their hair done while Ko’a and I got side by side massages, I got a shave, and they cleaned out ears! The stuff they were pulling out was shocking!

In the end, Zo’s hair turned out great. Louise’s a week later now, is gorgeous but a little off. And Ko’a and I can hear everything now like it’s our new superpower.

Cruising Around Town on Bikes: Highly Recommend

Most places that you stay at will have bikes that you can rent for free or for a small fee. There are also lots of places to rent them. Another option is to rent a motorbike, but be warned, riding motorbikes in the busy cities is pretty advanced riding. Practice in the countryside before attempting it in the city.

Head to the rice fields and get out of the town. Ride through the little villages on the outskirts. Stop to say hi to the locals. Go exploring!

Walking around the Old Town: Highly Recommend

Granted it’s pretty crazy now a days, but the vibe is still a vibe. The gorgeous architecture, lanterns lit at night, and boats on the water create a surreal environment that makes you feel like you’re living in a movie. Don’t skip Hoi An.

Now let’s move on….time for Danang!